Following KH’s Recommendation
Back in May, this lucky reviewer was able to ask King Hunk himself which spots in Boston he believes serve the best burgers in town. Although burgers are not his typical dining-out fare, he disclaimed, King Hunk did mention two locations: Highland Kitchen in Somerville, and Jim’s Deli in Brighton. As Jim’s was just a few blocks away from my apartment, I told him I would check it out and let him know the results. This review is my making good on that promise.
The Establishment: A True Neighborhood Spot
While I had walked by Jim’s Deli countless times since moving to Brighton, this was my first occasion entering the space. Right away, I understood its charm and status as a neighborhood mainstay. Right off the bat, Jim’s Deli reflects Brighton’s low tolerance for pretentiousness with a menu that eschews the now-prototypical farm-to-table prose seen at most American restaurants. You won’t see any name-drops of local orchards or cheesemakers here. That isn’t to say Jim’s menu is sparse: what items don’t fit across the six large flat-screens displayed at the front of the store are either posted or scrawled across the deli’s display counter. A classic sign of a quality spot feeding an underserved community, Jim’s Deli is clearly in jack-of-all-trades mode: a family-friendly greasy spoon where you can have your hot pastrami on rye with a side of french toast at any time of day.
Likewise, knowing its neighborhood fans have little use or care for frippery, the interior of Jim’s Deli is well-worn and straightforward, with either two- or four-top booths with low backs. There is no “tucking in” to enjoy a long, quiet meal alone if you choose the “for here” option. Everything about the setup suggests that while Jim’s wants you to come in, it also wants you to (kindly) get out. This was okay by me.
I ordered my meal, a cheeseburger plate with standards toppings, at the counter. The man who took my order promptly set upon the flat-top. In five minutes, my meal was hot and ready. I made my way over to the register to pay ($12.95 for a cheeseburger and complimentary fries).
The Burger
As someone who was about to take a strange number of photos, I opted for a low-profile seat near the back to eat my burger. The ingredients–a buttered sesame bun, cheddar cheese, a quarter-pound beef patty, tomato slice, dill pickles, diced white onion, and full-leaf lettuce–were classic yet fresh. Perhaps owing to the green cafeteria tray upon which my dinner was served, the aroma of the burger was redolent of meals I enjoyed in middle school (and this is not a knock–the food was surprisingly quite good). The burger also looked spectacular; I was excited to dig in.
Before I could, however, I had to make a minor adjustment to my meal: while noticeably bright and juicy, the raw tomato slice needed to sit on the sidelines.
During my estrazione del pomodoro, I learned that an even more sinister ingredient had made its way onto my sandwich: mayonnaise. As a child, this would have doomed my meal completely. Thankfully, as an adult, I’ve become more lenient (or more courageous) when it comes to encounters with the devil’s condiment. As I’d been given two napkins at the check-out counter, I went to work carefully removing the odious emulsion from the cheese and top bun.
Finally, I was ready to eat.
Tasting Notes
The Bun:
The toasted and buttered sesame bun did its best to hold everything together. It was soft but with enough structure to avoid becoming soggy, even by the last bite. The buttery flavor complemented the savory elements like any good use of butter should.
The Patty:
The beef patty was lean (I’d guess 80/20), well-seasoned, and cooked on the rarer side of medium. It was juicy with a slight char on the outside. What I expect helped make this burger stand out to King Hunk was the patty’s size and shape: at about a quarter pound and wider than the average burger, it wasn’t too thick, but was still hearty enough to stand up to the toppings and remain the star of the show.
The Cheese:
Melted cheddar blanketed the patty smoothly. It was sharp enough to make its presence known but didn’t overpower the other ingredients. The melt was also just right.
Toppings:
The lettuce was crisp and fresh, adding a nice crunch that balanced the richness of the meat and cheese. The thick cuts of raw onions brought some nice variation, and provided a sharp bite and a bit of sweetness. Finally, the pickles rounded out the meal by bringing some needed acid and tang. The toppings did slip and slide around on the bottom of the hamburger more than I’d like, likely due to the size of the onions.
Final Thoughts
Jim’s Deli didn’t try to reinvent anything with this cheeseburger, and no one’s complaining. They took a no-frills but dignified approach that hits all the right notes, at least to this Midwesterner brought up on burgers and steaks. Every element was in balance, nothing felt excessive or underdone. Will it blow you away? Maybe not, but at $12.95, it’s punching well above its weight. Also, I got the most basic cheeseburger Jim’s offers–it’s very likely they have something a bit more unique and delicious. But if you’re looking for a solid, well-built cheeseburger with fresh ingredients, this one checks all the boxes. King Hunk, per usual, knows what’s good.
Rating: 🐸🐸🐸🐸